36 Hours in Porquerolles
It took me a few years of living here to finally discover this incredible gem of an island in Provence… and have hesitated to post to preserve its secrets, but alas, this wild beauty will not stay guarded from foreign visitors for too long. And with the recent addition of a world-class art museum, this tiny island hideaway off the coast of Hyères, is quickly becoming a local’s Mediterranean hotspot.
The island of Porquerolles, is a total paradise complete with stunning beaches, bike trails and underwater shipwrecks that French and tourists in-the-know, flock to for an exotic weekend getaway. Accessible only by boat, yacht or ferry, the tiny island of Porquerolles is comprised of beautiful wild beaches, world-class modern art museum and a small quaint town center with a handful of hotels, bars and restaurants overlooking the harbor. The French government took over Porquerolles in the 1970s to protect it from overdevelopment and granted it national park status, which is why the island’s Mediterranean flora resembles the French Riviera of centuries past. Discover paths lined with oaks, olives, figs, junipers, wild lavender, rosemary, rock rose, myrtle and more.
What To Do
In addition to relaxing at the island’s stunning turquoise clear water beaches, the island also boasts a handful of vineyards and a fantastic modern art museum. The Villa Carmignac opened in 2018 with its first exhibition, filled with an impressive collection of artists, from: Basquiat, Botticelli, Picasso and Warhol and is located in the heart of this protected island. This year’s exhibition opens April 27 – Nov 3, 2025 and is titled, The Infinite Woman, curated by Alona Pardo (images below courtesy of the Carmignac Fondation Œuvre de France-Lise McGurn. 2024.)
Book your tickets online in advance and slip your shoes off for the Fondation Carmignac experience. There’s a lovely outdoor bistrot outside the museum for a cafe, glass of wine or healthy lunch under the pine trees. Then, reserve an hour-long wine tasting in advance to enjoy a selection of red, white and rosés made from Rolle, Mourvèdre, Grenache and Cinsault varieties at the Domaine La Courtade, an organic winery on the island open from 11am – 4pm during the summer months.
Getting Around The Island: Biking
Several bike rental agencies are available on the island from the village port, with both basic VTTs and electric bikes that you can hire for a full or half-day, but be sure to reserve in advance. Biking the island takes roughly 30 minutes from one side to the other, so is a great family activity with mostly shaded paths, when the temperatures are not too scorching.
Our Favorite Beaches
A lazy day swimming and hanging out by the water is a must. The crystal clear, turquoise waters are extraordinary. Plage Notre Dame is the largest of the island, and one of the most beautiful beaches of Europe with plenty of space for swimming in it’s wide sandy bay. It’s definitely a must-visit, although the most popular spot in the high summer months. Plage d’Argent, is a beautiful smaller inlet, and ideal to discover by boat. Each beach offers clear turquoise waters and golden sand. Explore and bike the island to experience its many inlets, creeks and beaches that are ideal for swimming and lazy all-day picnics.
Where to Eat & Drink
For lunch (only), there’s La Pinède a gastronomic gem hidden away in the 4-star hotel, Les Mas de Langoustine, with sea views serving fresh, local cuisine and seafood, but you’ll need to get there with either the hotel shuttle, or a bike.
After a full day in the water or biking the island, start your evening in the port with a sunset apéro and tapas at the bustling, L’Escale (2, rue de la Ferme – 83400 – Porquerolles – France) complete with lovely water views. For a great quality dinner (and recommended by the locals) in the central town, reserve a table at Villa Sainte Anne (24, place d’Armes – 83400). Located on the main plaza, discover a small but lovely selection of fresh fish and local cuisine served in an unpretentious setting overlooking the pétanque area.
When to Go
The island awakes from its winter hibernation a bit late, in mid-April to October each year. Throngs of locals and visitors arrive from Hyères by ferry every 15-30 minutes during the weekends. Our favorite time to visit is either early June or even better September, when the waters remain warm and tourists have faded away. Swimming is best from July to September when the Mediterranean water warms.
How to Get There
Our ideal way to access Porquerolles is by sailing with mooring available by advance reservation in the port (space is very limited in the summer months), or in one of the beautiful bays. Alternatively, arrive by ferry, navette or water taxi which is a mere 20 minutes ride from Hyères for a daytrip. During the busy summer months, ferries arrive every 15 minutes with full loads of passengers into the tiny island (it will be busy). Ferry tickets are available to purchase in advance or prepare to arrive the earliest possible (a must!), especially in the summer months of July and August.
Author & Photographer: Tarik Koivisto, Founder, Luxe Provence. Pictured wearing the Porquerolle-inspired, Camille Jumpsuit perfect for biking and Mediterranean beach strolls made in lightweight, OEKO-Tex striped linen.
