My Favorite Secret Villages of the Luberon

The Luberon is one of the most romantic, breath-taking regions of Provence. Discover colorful markets set in “platane” tree-lined squares, elegantly perched hilltop villages surrounded by fields of lavender, dotted with dancing sunflowers and vineyards as far as the eye can see. Strolling along the streets of these sleepy, old stone villages with their perfect patinas on the off-season, is like stepping back in time…in a glorious way. Peter Mayle’s best-selling ‘A Year in Provence’ awoke tourism to this region years ago, particularly to the villages of Gordes and Bonnieux, but there are also many more off-the-beaten path villages to discover. Gordes is of course, one of the most beautiful villages of the Luberon. And a stop in Bonnieux is always a delight, but let me show you a few other villages you may not yet know, where you can breathe in a bit of that magical, slow life.
What is special is that each of these Luberon villages has its own unique feel. Whether you’re in the mood for antique hunting, hiking up ruins from the middle ages, chic boutique shopping, or lazily sipping rosé while watching village life unfold, there’s a perfect Luberon village for you.
Saignon
Saignon is a quiet, very small yet magical village with it’s own fortified rock perched high above fields of lavender. The area has been inhabited since the Palaeolithic era, then later by the Romans. Three châteaux were built between 900 and 1200 and you can see the ruins with a walk to the top of Saignon’s large rock, which was once used as a signal station to help protect both the village and nearby city of Apt, from invasions.


There are just a few shops including a lovely artisan’s hat shop, jewellery boutique and few restaurants, church and post office. Enjoy a cafe at the beautiful fountain and then walk up the winding and charming flower-filled streets for delicious dinner and amazing sunset views out over the valley below at Un Jardin Sur le Toit.
Oppede-le-Vieux
Another sleepy, authentic Luberon village where you will truly feel that time has stood still is Oppede-le-Vieux. Walk slowly through the quiet streets bursting with jasmine, beautifully manicured roses and hollyhocks that are perfectly placed against aged patina on the rose and wheat coloured facades.

This village is a dream for me to shoot in with my Provencal muse Louise Pascal (pictured here in our Juliette, Anais and Venus Dresses), especially in the early summer. There’s one or two restaurants and a new authentic, luxe hotel that opened recently on the outskirts of Oppede by the Fontenille group La Bastide du Mourre, which would be a great spot to stay. While in town, take the beautiful uphill path behind the vieux village center that leads to a charming, little chapel at the top with sweeping 360-degree views of the Luberon valley below.
Saint-Saturnin-lès-Apt
This charming, Luberon village is set around ruins of a medieval chateaux and chapel dating all the way back to the 9th century.

Built on rock with two 17th century windmills, this sleepy village has been put on the map by an ambitious young couple who have launched a fantastic restaurant, Le Saint Hubert, featuring local producers and innovative cuisine. They have recently added on a small boutique hotel with a handful of well-designed rooms and have successfully managed to draw in a fantastic community of regular customers and visitors from around the globe. Within the village, there are a handful of cafes and shops with a surprising amount of resident artisans and artists. Watch for their summer open studio events and village festival, to discover more about this creative community living here and stroll along the ruins and ramparts. And be sure to say hi to Lise & Eric from me at Le Saint Hubert. I only wish I lived closed to visit more often. And best of all, you can find gluten-free and allergy-friendly options, just be sure to let them know.
Lourmarin
This one may not be very secret at all, but there’s a lot more happening in this chic. Luberon village than appears on the surface… from boutique shopping to hip, music festivals. Lourmarin is a well-manicured village featuring a beautiful Renaissance château with lovely gardens, just off the centre ville that hosts various events and a wine boutique.


The buzzing commercial center is filled with charming shops and boutiques, with several sunny, terrace restaurants filled and buzzing with English-speaking visitors and locals alike. On the busy weekends and summer, find musicians playing jazz in the streets as you sip a rosé or café. Indeed Lourmarin is hardly undiscovered especially on market days, each Tuesday evening and Friday until 1pm, but it’s the perfect place for people watching and to pick-up a mix of: local artisanal products, wine, clothes, straw baskets, fresh produce, cheeses, honey and more.

To escape the crowds, we love snagging a table on a rooftop terrace for early evening nibbles to “grignoter” along with a glass of wine to kick off an evening, or to relax after a day of market shopping. Visit the château to pick up a local bottle of wine from it’s extensive cave inside, along with a wonderful assortment of fine “epicerie” items for a picnic or apéro. The château also houses temporary art exhibitions and special events throughout the year, including the popular YEAH Festival founded by music producer and DJ Laurent Garnier, featuring hip headlining bands, world-class DJS and talented French musicians each September.

Then, enjoy a Michelin-star gluten-free dinner at La Feniere by Nadia Samut, a short five minute drive away in the countryside near Cadenet. Her innovative gastronomic restaurant, Le Gout du Bonheur has earned a green Michelin star with refined dining, locally sourced products featuring the finest produce and seafood from Provence. The restaurant has been a family affair, featuring three generations of female chefs, passed down from her mother and grandmother. I also dine regularly at the terrace bistrot, Une Table a la Campagne, which offers a charming, less expensive alternative to enjoy her gluten-free cuisine, profiling local producers and seasonal high-quality ingredients.
Lacoste
The village of Lacoste features finely preserved ancient stone architecture and cobblestone streets that give the impression of a village where time has stood still. Yet scratch the surface of the finely manicured streets, and you’ll stumble upon modern art sculptures and fine art ateliers. In fact, you’ll discover a vibrant creative community of student artists, and designers living among the locals here from SCAD, Savannah College of Art & Design. What a dream of a village to study in! SCAD hosts regular exhibitions on fashion, as well as, open studio days featuring current and past artists-in-residence.


In addition to a world-class art and design school, each year Lacoste host’s it’s famous former residence, Pierre Cardin’s Annual Festival. The festival takes over the village each summer and provides a stunning backdrop for world-class opera, theater and music in the Carrières and Château du Marquis de Sade at the top of the village. The festival draws thousands of visitors coinciding with the Festival d’Avignon each July. It’s an intimate, spectacular cultural evening and the Mozart operetta I took in was awe-inspiring! Stop at the Café de France for a drink or café and sip in the sweeping Luberon valley views.

Fontaine-de-Vaucluse
This breathtaking village bears the mysterious grand source of France supplying the Sorgue River that flows throughout the town. Ranked fifth in the world with an annual flow of 630 to 700 million cubic meters springing from unknown depths, this is the top producing source in France! In the 50s, Jacques Cousteau came with a submersible to explore the depths but was unable to reach the bottom.

For most of the year all you can see is a deep blue pool of water at the bottom of the towering cliffs. However, during spring or very heavy rainfall this source lives up to its repuation, with water gushing out at 200m3 (52,000 gallons) every second! I witnesssed this after a succession of heavy rains and it was spectacular, nearly submerging the town’s main bridge!


In summer, the town can be overrun a bit by tourists, so either arrive very early or visit on the shoulder season, a pure delight to visit and have a lunch next to the Sorgue River after a hike in the surrounding cliffs which offer 360 degree views of this magnificent place and its blue-green waters. I had a lovely lunch at a riverside table in the center ville. It’s also great family fun to rent a canoe from either of the two outfitters in town and spend 2-3 hours flowing down the picturesque river. Stop for a picnic along the way and enjoy the respite and watch the ducks bob by. Be warned, the water is always extremely cold, even in the heat of the summer!

Cucuron
Romantic Cucuron has its own amazing restaurant, La Petite Maison, and a lovely weekly market set around this magnificent plaza featuring a reflecting pond with koi and some of the most beautiful, massive platane trees in Provence. Wander the charming streets on a market day held each Tuesday morning and top off your fresh cheeses, fruits and honeys for the week with a cafe overlooking the romantic basin or lunch.
Ménerbes
Ménerbes, once the home of Peter Mayle, features beautiful architecture from both the 16th and 18th centuries set on a beautiful hilltop and has since become a little Luberon hotspot for art, literature and culture beginning with the Maison Dora Maar and L’Hotel de Tingry. Founded by Nancy B. Negley the center offers both artist in-residency programs, as well as, a cultural center which engages residents, members and global audiences through its programs of exhibitions, lectures and events.

Discover many little galleries and shops, plus a truffle-filled boutique with local wines, La Maison de la Truffle with a gorgeous back garden and views over the valley. Enjoy a meal at either Cafe du Progress, a lovely bistro with stunning Luberon views in the village, or head out towards the vineyards to Bastide de Marie, one of my favorite places featuring a 5-star hotel, private villas (pictured below) and an incredible restaurant in the Luberon. It’s an absolutely, luxury Provence setting with the perfect interiors and views over the vineyards for a terrace lunch. Everything is divine! We were invited to a host a Luxe Provence VIP private sale here and fell in love with their villas. For the hotel or lunch reservations, do be sure to book in advance.
I hope you have enjoyed my newly, updated guide to my favorite, secret Luberon villages!
– Tarik

Interior villa views at La Bastide de Marie. You may shop all pieces featured in this article at: www.luxe-provence.shop.
Blog author, creative design and Luberon village photography by: Tarik Koivisto with Luxe Provence model: Louise Pascal. Saint Saturnin-lès-Apt photo by Jamie Beck.