Art, Culture & Cézanne in Aix-en-Provence
I honestly cannot believe that it’s been 14 years living here in Provence. My family and I moved to our little perched hilltop village just outside of Aix-en-Provence from San Francisco, in search of a slower life for our growing bilingual boys.
It’s true what they say, and yes, I did indeed leave a bit of my heart in San Francisco; it’s a city I will always adore, but it came time to seek out a simpler life. I met my South of France-born and raised husband, back in 1997, and each year we would come back to visit. We would stay in either Montpellier or Aix-en-Provence regularly, but that magic golden light, the romantic landscapes, artist history and proximity to the turquoise Mediterranean waters in Cassis… well Aix, won my heart. And now this is the place we call home!
Lucky for me, there seem to be more and more cultural and art-related events happening each year in Aix, the artist-loving city of 1000 fountains. In fact, we are all excited here and gearing up for a big event this year: Cézanne 2025.
The City of Cézanne 2025
The city of Aix-en-Provence has a history of inspiring some of the world’s most famous writers, poets and artists, including of course: Cézanne, Van Gogh and Picasso. But Cézanne was born and raised in Aix, and spent the majority of his life working and painting in the region until 1906. And this year, we are in for a treat! The city of Aix-en-Provence is honoring Cézanne, at last, with an international exhibition from June 28 – October 12, 2025. Cézanne au Jas de Bouffan, his home for over 40 years, is opening to the public for the first time this summer. The property itself inspired over 50 paintings including, The Card Players (above), where he lived and painted between 1859-1899. Together with the Musée Granet, Aix-en-Provence will host Cézanne 2025 a retrospective featuring an outstanding selection of a hundred paintings, drawings and watercolours from collections around the world, that will take you on a deep-dive into the artist’s private life and reveals his close bond with the family home.
Cézanne rambled the Aixoise countryside around the Mont Sainte-Victoire during his adolescence with none other than, Émile Zola and later with his friend, Picasso. If you haven’t watched the film, Cézanne et moi, it’s a lovely way to acquaint yourself to the inspirational qualities of the region, art and life of Cézanne. The Sainte-Victoire dominates the landscape in and around Aix and is the city’s icon. It became Cézanne’s favorite subject, as he produced 44 oils and 43 watercolors testifying his love and fascination of the picturesque mountain.
The stories and history of these artists and their life in and around Aix-en-Provence and the Sainte Victoire, have always been fascinating to me and served as inspiration for my Artist’s Life Luxe Provence collection (the Cézanne chemise featured above). I chose to photograph the collection in the heart of Aix, the Mazarin Neighborhood and Cours Mirabeau.
It’s such a pleasure to walk along the beautiful streets of Aix-en-Provence and pause at the city’s finest fountains, or spend countless hours at it’s beautiful sunny restaurant terraces, always bustling with both locals and international travellers, alike. I especially love the flower market in the Place de la Marie each Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday. A definite must!
Art & Culture – La Vie Aixoise
If you are planning a visit to Provence this year, you must come to Aix. However, be sure to reserve tickets for Cézanne 2025 and the Festival d’Aix (more below) if you are here in July. To help you plan your visit, I thought I’d share my favorite local addresses for some art-filled days and the most indulgent hotels to book for your stay in Aix this summer.
Gallifet Centre d’Art & Restaurant
After a day of shopping and strolling on the Cours Mirabeau, pop into Gallifet for lunch or an afternoon tea followed by one of their changing, modern art exhibitions. It’s the perfect place to unwind and experience the real Aixoise lifestyle (like a local). This stunning 18th century manor house ideally situated in Aix’s historic Mazarin district, opened to the public in 2010. Run and curated by Nicolas Mazet & Kate Davis the venue serves as an art & design center, community creative hub and gastronomic seasonal restaurant. Fusing its historic space with modern art exhibitions, along with creative ateliers, design events and now a superb restaurant open for both lunch and dinners (read more here). The lovely outdoor garden makes the perfect, relaxed Aixoise setting for an evening out with girlfriends or family during the warmer months. Be sure to check their website to book ahead.
Caumont Centre d’Art
Experience the Aixoise cultural institution by Culturespaces with an art museum, tea room, and café, all in one. This 18th century manoir built just off of the Cours Mirabeau, houses the newly redesigned Hôtel de Caumont, the work of Parisian architect Robert de Cotte, built under the supervision of Georges Vallon.
The mansion and stunning gardens have been lovingly restored to house a museum and precious interior courtyard café. Pair a trip to the museum with an afternoon tea, cocktail or gorgeous lunch in the stunning French garden courtyard restaurant which serves fresh plates, salads and desserts. They also host jazz evenings and evening museum visits, so be sure to check their calendar of events for exhibition tickets. The current exhibition is on photographer, Steven McCurry.
Musée Granet
The Musée Granet collection is housed in two historic buildings and contains over 600 paintings and sculptures! It’s permanent Planque Collection, received in 2011 from a major Swiss collector, consists of some 300 paintings, drawings and sculptures from the Impressionists and Post-Impressionists (Cézanne, Monet, Van Gogh, Degas) to the major artists of the 20th century such as Bonnard, Picasso, Braque, Léger, de Staël and Dubuffet.
In order to present the essence of this magnificent collection, the original museum was enlarged in the chapel of the Pénitents blancs, a jewel of Aix-en-Provence’s 17th century architecture. And this year, it will also be co-hosting the Cézanne 2025 Retrospective with the exhibition split between the Musée Granet and Cézanne’s former home, the Bastide du Jas de Bouffan, which opens this July!
Festival d’Aix
The Festival d’Aix-en-Provence is an annual international music festival which takes place each summer in Aix-en-Provence, mainly in July. Devoted mainly to opera, it also includes concerts of orchestral, chamber, vocal and solo instrumental music. My favorite places to take in a concert is at the Theatre Archevêché, located in the Cathedral Saint-Sauveur or the Jeu de Paumes, a restored 18th century theater. The festival has been running each year since 1948 when it was founded by Countess Lily Pastré, who covered the entire costs to bring culture to the people. The festival is spread over 5-6 concert venues, in Aix and the surrounding villages and you MUST get your tickets well in advance.
Pavillon Noir
The Pavillon Noir was designed by the well-respected architect, Rudy Ricciotti, who also designed Marseille’s Mucem, which is home to the Ballet Preljocaj lead by Angelin Preljocaj (shown above, left), a former dancer who formed his company in 1984. His productions are now part of the repertoire of many companies, many of which also commission original production from him (New York City Ballet, Staatsoper Berlin, Paris National Opera Ballet…). He has also directed and collaborated on several films of his own choreographic work.
Where to Stay
Whether you prefer to stay in town, or in the countryside here are my picks for top luxury hotels in Aix for you.
La Villa Saint-Ange
Located a few minutes by foot from the center ville, the 5-star La Villa Sainte-Ange features a superb Mediterranean garden and a property spanning 8,000 m2. The renovated 18th-century villa features Second Empire architectural details, such as its scalloped roof with sophisticated, traditional townhouse interiors.
Villa Galici
Another 5-star hotel, the Villa Galici is a Relais & Chateaux property dating from the 18th century featuring refined Italian baroque design with a cypress tree lined property, just a few minutes from the center of town with 23 rooms and suites in a 2-hectare Provencal garden.
Maison d’Aix
This bijoux of a boutique hotel is located in this historically rich Mazarin Quarter. Architects Laura Juhen and Louis Mariott have lovingly renovated this discrete, boutique hôtel and spa conveniently located in the very heart of Aix-en-Provence.
Château de la Gaude
Château de la Gaude, is an 18th-century Provençal bastide featuring a 5-star hotel/spa with 14 rooms & suites, along with 3 fine-dining restaurants, one Michelin-starred, and its own wine-producing vineyards overlooking the Sainte Victoire. The gardens are absolutely sublime! It’s about a 10 minute drive into the center of Aix, located in the countryside north of town.
Villa La Coste
Located about 20 minutes from Aix, in the vineyards near Le-Puy-Sainte-Réparade, the Villa La Coste is a luxury, 5-star property set in the Chateau La Coste vineyards and art center. With their own vineyards and Michelin-starred restaurant by Hélene Darroze there’s plenty to do! Between the art, sculpture park and galleries, featuring world-class modern artists and architects including: Frank Gehry, Tadao Ando, Andy Goldsworthy, Renzo Piano, Yoko Ono and more there’s much to discover.
Those are my top luxury hotel picks in Aix for you, with a little help from my travel expert friend, Philip Haslett. And if you are in need of a full travel designer for your trip to Provence, or any of France for that matter, be sure to contact Philip and friends over at French Promise located in Aix. They are the best in France for luxury travel and can help you plan every detail for a bespoke voyage! Be sure to tell them I sent you. Hope you enjoy a bit of art and culture in Aix this year!
Written by Tarik Koivisto, Founder and Creative Director of Luxe Provence. Street and landscape photography by Tarik Koivisto. Hotel photographs courtesy of the hotels. Photo of Tarik, by Melanie Jacquier in the Place des Albertas.
