It at all started in 1945, when Raymond Thuilier purchased an abandoned and relatively, isolated provençal mas tucked into the protected hillside called the Baumanière. At the time, this area of Provence was considered “Le Val d’Enfer” or the valley of hell, due to the rugged shape of the surrounding limestone rocks and difficult to access location.

Raymond was taken with the majestic property setting at the foot of the fortified hilltop village of Les Baux de Provence (read more about the region in our wine travel guide here) years prior, and set out with the mission to carve out a gastronomic inn and haven of peace in this dramatic setting.

As it turns out, it was a visionary idea. The L’Oustau de Baumanière became the first Relais & Chateaux property achieving a coveted 5-star status with its luxury hotel and 3-star Michelin cuisine. Raymond’s grandson, Jean-André Charial, a young 24-year old rising Michelin starred chef in his own right, decided to join in the family business. The two worked together hand-in-hand to perfect their legendary gastronomic cuisine for over 15 years. Today, Jean-André and his wife Geneviève, continue the family tradition of running the property and are constantly refining the gastronomy of their two restaurants, the hotel design, activities and spa experience bringing over 75 years of heritage and passion for the site. The original mas has since expanded to include five traditional Provence-style buildings with 54 bedrooms, and prestige luxury suites.

You can still feel a sense of history and air of secret refuge as your gently pull into the valley and first discover the property’s magnificent surroundings. This mythical place is where many French and international royalty have retreated to and celebrated their milestone events for over 70 years.

Its first rooms were inaugurated by Georges Pompidou in 1945 at a moment when France was ready to embrace and celebrate a new era after years of upheaval and trauma from World War II. This hideaway resort quickly became a preferred stop for famous writers, royals such as Queen Elizabeth, gifted painters as Picasso, and international politicians and celebrities of every kind. Jean Cocteau spent three months here in 1958; while more recently, your could bump into the likes of Johnny Depp and Vanessa Paradis.

I was delighted to discover that the property also boasts France’s second largest wine cellar, or cave. The selection of French fine wines is extremely impressive, including priceless bottles dating back to 1883 from Chateau Lafite Rothschild. Sommelier, Gilles Ozzello, gave us a private cellar tour of their fine wine collection started in 1945 featuring over 60,000 bottles, which are stored in perfect temperature by the surrounding natural stone hillside in two locations.  Their selection is therefore, quite incredible and the Baumanière offers its own wine-tasting courses, or Cours d’Oenologie by reservation.

It’s worth noting, that not only is Jean-André (pictured above) a highly accomplished chef who currently presides over not one, but two, Michelin starred restaurants (L’Oustau de Baumanière and Baumanière 1850 at the Hotel le Strato Courchevel during the winter months), but was also the original winemaker at Chateau Romanin. He was an early pioneer adopting biodynamic farming methods in winemaking back in 1987.

After the death of Chateau Romanin partner, Jean-Pierre Peyraud, in 2001, Jean André suffered a disappointing loss with the change of ownership of the domaine. He went on to create his very own wine with another Les Baux de Provence AOP, Domaine de Lauzieres. He emotionally and aptly, called it l’Affectif, a truly delicious local wine available in rosé or red on-site, in which he employed the same sustainable growing methods he pioneered early on. This story of its name was inspired by conversations with his close friend and frequent hotel visitor, Georges Wolinski (the French cartoonist and Charlie Hebdo comics writer tragically killed on 7 January 2015) in which he referred to Jean-Pierre Raffarin as a “carburait a l’affectif”. Eleven years later, the ex-Prime Minister entitled his latest memoir “Je marcherai toujours a l’affectif…” and mentioned in the preface that he found that title on the terrace of the Baumanière.

The hotel, restaurants and rooms have recently gone through numerous design upgrades, led by Geneviève (pictured below) and her interior designer daughter in-law, integrating a mix of modern amenities and high design lighting fixtures with local artisanal pieces, historic touches, and carefully selected art. I particularly appreciate the integration of local and artisanal products in their restaurant’s own ceramics and beautifully curated boutique.

Geneviève’s role is to be the guardian of the spirit and Baumanière heritage of the hotel and property. For instance, I was delighted to discover a cookbook dedicated to Jean-André from Oliver Baussan, passionate Provence resident and founder of L’Occitane, in my suite, which was a lovely touch.

Their spacious suites have been beautifully renovated and feature thoughtful private terraces overlooking the property’s beautifully manicured gardens and swimming basins.

During my stay, I awoke gently to the birds chirping and magnificent, dramatic views of the beautifully landscaped gardens and village of Les Baux…truly heaven, an authentic, secret luxury Provence. It is a pleasure to wander and get lost on the property. There’s also direct access to several trails leading including up directly to the breathtaking village of Les Baux de Provence. And there are many intentional quaint corners, tables and poolside areas to relax in throughout the property to enjoy the dramatic setting… you may not want to leave.

Being a bit of a foodie, I was thrilled to experience a fantastic culinary class taught by Cabro d’Or Chef, Michel Hulin.  Each spring and summer, Jean-André and Michel Hulin, offer private cooking classes in small groups up to 12 people (from 145 euros per person with lunch included) in each of the restaurants. The Cabro d’Or, Michel’s restaurant, draws its inspiration from the property’s organic vegetable garden, market fresh fish and lighter dishes, which I adored.

Michel’s passion and precision for perfecting each vegetable and ingredient in our spring lunch was truly impressive to witness. His fish dishes were truly divine and combines special techniques to maintain the integrity and flavor to his vegetables, which can sometimes be lost in traditional, heavier French cuisine.

The Cabro d’Or offers a new La Table d’hote relaxed summer lunch experience, featuring a market fresh menu that changes each week (from 33 euros per person) enjoyed in the gardens and fountain of the restaurant.  It’s a great way to get a taste of the property and cuisine on a sunny afternoon, if you’re visiting for the day. You may even get a peek at their adorable baby goats.

Along with a spring cooking course, the hotel has recently launched a new spa retreat concept with zen thursday and weekend events, which include guided meditation and rejuvenating 3-hour spa packages, complete with an on-site meditation expert and relaxing massage options.

What I find rare, is to experience this sense that you are staying as part of their extended family, rather than at a hotel. They truly care about each painstaking detail of your stay and noticed there’s a special, quaintness and family ambiance within the staff as well. If you’re looking for an authentic, gastronomic luxury retreat in Provence… look no further.

To discover more about the region, check out our 36 Hours of Wine Tasting in Les Alpilles or our Les Alpilles Travel Guide including travel tips for Les Baux de Provence and Saint-Rémy-de-Provence.

Article and Photography by: Tarik Koivisto, Founder, Luxe Provence

(Hotel Château des Alpilles in Saint Remy)

There is a spot of mystique and natural beauty that must be experienced to be understood: the Provençal wine region of Les Baux-de-Provence Appellation d’origine controlee (AOP).

The Alpilles Mountains run a ridge through the north-western corner of the Bouches du Rhône department of Provence. Alpilles means little Alps, but visitors to the area are moved by the largess of the wildly rugged, authentic and mysterious setting. It’s here that a small group of winemakers produce red, rosé and white wines in the shadow of Les Baux-de-Provence village, a 13^th century fortification that lends its name to this AOP.

Vineyards can be found on either side of the Alpilles Mountains, cresting into the quite dry, fascinatingly hot oven where the grapes thrive and the Mistral wind blows. This region is unique for production of a larger percent (over 50%) of red wine, rather than the traditionally Provençal output of primarily rosé. Most estates also grow olives and mill olive oil, established under an agricultural AOP as well.

While the AOP is young (celebrating 21 years this summer), the practice of making wine is ancient, often conducted as part of general family farming in recent history, but dating back to Roman times when this area of Provence was on the road from Rome to Spain. Roman and Greek ruins can still be viewed in the area. The AOP leans heavily on biodynamique and organic farming and movements are in process to include these practices as an AOP mandate. It is also a small settlement of only twelve estates; a unique opportunity to taste and purchase a full portfolio from the area.

36 Hours in Les Baux de-Provence AOP

Locals and visitors can enjoy a summer exploration of each of these estates. Many of them do not export greatly, or at all, outside of Provence. Les Baux-de-Provence wines are found in local hotels, restaurants and for sale on site, with a small portion available for export. Taking time to explore and discover the region is the best and perhaps only way to experience the richness of this distinct space.

Friday

Start out early on Friday morning with a visit to the Eygalières market. Here you’ll find gorgeous produce (and a scarf or dress in colors to match), plump roasted chickens, aromatic herbs, colorful baskets and lots of families out doing their shopping. Local vignerons are often at the market, increasing one’s chances of getting an inside conversation with a local winemaker. Gather picnic essentials: cheese, a couple of baguettes, a chicken and some tomatoes. These can be eaten on a sunny stone wall, or under a tree along the summit, where château ruins offer a view of the Alpilles. After lunch, pace the afternoon around time at these neighboring wine estates.

Domaine de la Vallongue

The name means Domaine of the Long Valley, signifying the estate’s location on the ancient Roman roadway connecting Rome and Spain. Enjoy a tasting of the domaine’s red, white and rosé wines as well as the AOC olive oils, for sale on premises.

Domaine Lauzières

Taste both estate wine and olive oil in the domaine’s carnotzet, a Swiss word depicting a cellar bar or room where people gather to taste wine in a lively and welcoming setting. Purchase wines in 750ml bottles or an impressive magnum bottle for entertaining.

Mas de Gourgonnier

This family-run estate welcomes visitors to their bio-dynamically farmed estate. They’ve been certified by European and American governing bodies for sustainable growing methods. Guests can taste and purchase wine and olive oil and perhaps meet one of the estate family members.

Mas de la Dame

Vincent Van Gogh once painted Mas de la Dame, in a work once featured at the Metropolitan Museum in New York. The likeness now appears on certain bottles of Mas de la Dame wine. Visit and taste wine and olive oil in this family-run, historic cellar.

Chateau d’Estoublon

Pop into the Chateau’s boutique to purchase wine and tasty gourmet and local treats. A family friendly self-guided walking tour leads through the native habitat as well as the grape and olive growing culture. Enjoy an exquisite dinner at Bistro Mogador (weekday dinner July and August only), the on-site restaurant.

After dinner, spend the evening in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, a town rich with stone, light and history that leaps back many years to Gallo-Roman times. The layout of the town still bears the shape of a protective circle, and the remains of a 14^th century wall (including distinctive portes) still welcome residents as they stroll through town. Plane (platane in French) trees line routes leading into town, many planted by Romans to distinguish travel lines.

Saint-Rémy-de-Provence is inviting for luxury and appeals to ancient artistic urges. Vincent Van Gogh still lives through nearby environs which exhibit the colors, nature strokes, sky and stone that he painted until the end of his life.

Luxury hotels in and around Saint-Rémy-de-Provence are a curated delight. Consider booking at Hotel de Tourrel (recently featured), l’Oustau Baumanière les Baux de Provence, Domaine de Manville or our favorite, Chateau des Alpilles (below). Discover quintessential “Luxe Provence” from its storybook chateau, luxury appointed rooms… to the welcoming staff (read more about my love affair with this fabulous place here) for a truly restful and pampering overnight between vineyard visits. If you cannot nab a room at the chateau, you can also opt for a lovely relaxed lunch poolside featuring fresh fish, grilled local meats and Mediterranean cuisine during the summer months.

Saturday

Linger over breakfast at your hotel before packing up the car to head to the village of Les Baux de-Provence. This village welcomes many visitors each year because it is absolutely unique in natural setting as well as its history as a Provençal stronghold dating back to the 10^th century. Carved and re-carved out of the bauxite hills, the village is visually stunning and presents a glorious view of the surrounding vineyards and Alpilles Mountains. A stop at the nearby Les Carriere des Lumieres is a stirring and imaginative distinction set aside exclusively for visitors to this area. Nothing else like it exists! Continue the day by tasting wine from the vineyards just observed from above.

Domaine Guilbert

Located on the road out of Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, Domaine Guilbert is the smallest domaine in the appellation. The domaine’s mas (the southern French term for a country house, typically made of stone) and cellar is situated around lavender, cypress and olive trees; a natural expression of the region.

Château Dalmeran

Château Dalmeran offers cooking and wine tasting classes at their château where olive groves and vineyards grow. Take home your own bottle of Château Dalmeran Red, a cellar-worthy blend of Grenache, Syrah and Cabernet-Sauvignon aged in oak for 24 months and sold 5 years after harvest.

Mas Sainte Berthe

The stony vineyards and welcoming tasting room of Mas Sainte Berthe rest at the foot of Les Baux de-Provence village. After tasting or purchasing from their set of red, white and rosé wines, Mas Sainte Berte invites visitors for a walk through the property. Get cameras ready for a unique view of the village from the vines.

Domaine des Terres Blanches

Domaine de Terres Blanches is located along a gravel road, which eventually leads to vines and onward to the tasting room. The estate offers promenades around the property, which is directly in the shadow of the Alpilles Mountains. The estate utilizes “BioActive” farming methods, thus leaving much of the surrounding natural, an excellent spot to connect with the native essence of the area. The wines here are lovely, from bright and delightful whites and rosés to fragrant reds.

Château Romanin

Recently completed, the estate’s chai is exquisitely modeled after a cathedral, carved into the native rock. The tasting room is just as beautiful, with soothing wood and metals in custom décor. Taste or buy from their lineup of wines in a luxurious setting.

After a day of walks, wine and sightseeing spend and evening in the hotel’s piscine followed by a late dinner in town. Maison Drouot, Bistrot du Paradou and L’Estagnol make lovely choices for gastronomique, locally-sourced menus. (see earlier article here for more)

Baumanière les Baux-de-Provence

This luxury hotel dramatically set in the valley of Les Baux de Provence embodies the region’s artisanal and gastronomic traditions, which have been passed down from generation to generation for over seven decades. Founded more than 70 years ago by Raymond Thuilier, l‘Oustau de Baumanière has maintained its iconic status as an authentic Provence institution for both dining and luxury relaxation retreats in the area.

The Baumaniere integrates two local wine estates to its gastronomic restaurants and boutique, Domaine Hauvette and L’Affectif, the creation of Jean-André Charial, current founder of l’Oustau Baumanière. Jean-André’s vineyard is located at Domaine de Lauzières where he produces 8 000 bottles of L’Affectif, his own delicious biodynamic wine. This Michelin-starred chef also offers personable cooking classes on Saturday mornings throughout the season and their newly redesigned bistro serves up delightful, fresh seafood each day, combined with local ingredients from the hotel’s own organic gardens.

Another estate of note, Domaine de Trevallon, is an important part of the regional winemaking story. Founder Eloi Dürrbach planted his first vineyard in the Alpilles in 1973. Since then he’s been a groundbreaker for authentic, sustainable and innovative Alpilles winemaking. To preserve his estate’s ability to make wine without appellation restrictions, the estate is not a member of the AOP. Still, these wines reflect the region through landmark methods and flavors and play a significant role Alpilles winemaking.

5 Les Baux de-Provence AOP Wines for Summer Meal Pairings

With so much lovely wine to choose from, it could be a hard decision when it comes to purchasing wine to enjoy during a Provençal summer. May we suggest a few bottles?

Domaine de Lauziers Equinoxe 2015 Rosé

Powder pink in color, this wine opens with “basil-scented strawberry notes” leading into citrus aromas. Balanced in profile and acidity, the winemaker suggests pairing with Mediterranean Bluefin tuna, small meat-stuffed vegetables or a strawberry, citrus fruit and herb soup. 90% Grenache Noir, 5% Counoise and 5% Mourvèdre.

Chateau Romanin AOP Les Baux-de-Provence 2015 Rosé

Pale pink and delicate, this wine offers a balanced and complex profile to accompany the flavors of meal. The winemaker recommends pairing with mixed summer salads, seafood and fruit salads. Grenache, Counoise, Syrah and Mourvèdre.

Domaine des Terres Blanches Les Baux-de-Provence AOP Blanc 2014

Intense yet clean, crisp and “slightly effervescent” this wine can be enjoyed now or cellared for up to eight years. Pascal Leonetti, Best Sommelier in France 2006, sommelier at the Auberge de l’ill (three Michelin stars) offers the following pairing suggestions: “salad of scampi fried in olive oil, or Japanese cuisine, smoked salmon maki. Provençal goat’s cheeses, such as matured Banon, are also a good match.” Rolle, Grenache Blanc, Clairette, Marsanne, Ugni Blanc, Roussane and Viognier.

Château d’Estoublon 2015 Rosé

Aromatic and expressive of the region, this well-rounded wine with candy jar flavors is perfect to sip by the pool or with a meal. Pair with a plate of almonds, goat cheese and a baguette or with a summer meal of greens and a lightly seasoned roast chicken. 60% Grenache, 20% Syrah and 20% Mourvèdre.

Domaine de la Vallounge Cuvée Garrigues 2015 AOP Baux de Provence

Lively and fresh, this well-balanced bottle exhibits citrus and white fruit flavors. Lovely as a pre-meal drink or with a menu of grilled fish and vegetables or salads dressed in a local olive oil. 60% Grenache, 40% Cinsault.

Guest Post written by: Jill Barth

We are very excited to introduce guest author, blogger and Provence wine expert, Jill Barth. Jill is a wine writer and journalist based in the US who frequently travels to Provence. She blogs at L’occasion and is a certified Provence Wine Master. 

Visit her on Instagram and twitter as @jillbarth and on Facebook as L’occasion. (Originally posted June 10, 2016 with updates August 8, 2017.)